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The Puff and Circumstance: A Trend Inflated or Enduring?




Let’s face it, fashion loves a good dose of drama. And what’s more dramatic than a cloud of tulle, a mountain of silk, a veritable explosion of fabric? We’ve all seen them – those voluminous silhouettes, billowing sleeves, and exaggerated proportions that have, in recent seasons, taken center stage. From the runways of Comme des Garçons to the racks of Zara, “puff” has become something of a sartorial epidemic.


But is it just me, or is there something a little…off? Don’t get me wrong, I appreciate a good architectural flourish as much as the next fashion devotee. I still remember the first time I saw a Viktor & Rolf show, back when their creations were more performance art than ready-to-wear. The sheer audacity of those proportions! It was exhilarating, challenging, and yes, even a little bit absurd.


And that’s the thing about volume – it needs that element of intention, of knowing subversion, to truly resonate. Otherwise, it risks tipping over into the realm of costume, a caricature of itself. Take, for instance, the recent obsession with gargantuan puffer jackets. Practical for an arctic expedition, perhaps, but for a quick coffee run? One can’t help but wonder if the wearer is about to float away.


There’s also the issue of wearability. Fashion, at its core, is a dialogue between garment and wearer. It should move with you, respond to you, not engulf you whole. Yet, I’ve lost count of the times I’ve seen women wrestling with their clothes – sleeves catching on door handles, skirts ballooning in the wind, the constant need to adjust and readjust. It’s exhausting to watch, let alone experience.


But here’s the rub. Amidst the sea of inflated silhouettes, there are moments of genuine brilliance. Designers who understand that volume isn’t just about size, but about shape, texture, and movement. The artful drape of a Rick Owens gown, the sculptural elegance of a Loewe sleeve – these are pieces that transcend mere trend and enter the realm of the truly captivating.


So, where does that leave us? Is “puff” here to stay or is it destined to deflate? As with most things in fashion, the answer is likely a bit of both. The truly innovative designers will continue to push boundaries, exploring new ways to manipulate volume and create clothes that are both thought-provoking and beautiful. The rest? Well, they’ll move on to the next shiny object, leaving a trail of discarded trends in their wake.


And me? I’ll be watching from the sidelines, as always, with a critical eye and a healthy dose of skepticism. Because while I may appreciate a good dose of drama, I’m ultimately more interested in clothes that empower, intrigue, and stand the test of time. And sometimes, that means knowing when to let go of the air and embrace a little more substance.

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